Chapter 10

Chapter 10: How to Make the Kesa (including the rakusu and zagu)

Before getting into the specifics of making a kesa, here are some points to keep in mind:

First, determine the overall vertical and horizontal measurements that fit your body.
If you are using narrow (regular-width) fabric (that is, standard-width kimono fabric), then depending on the kind of fabric, there could be 2-3cm difference in width. It is important to measure the width of the fabric first to determine the size of each piece.
In determining the vertical and horizontal measurements of the finished kesa, it is acceptable to deviate ten centimeters, more or less, from the standard measurement in order not to waste the fabric.
In case of using shakkanhō, the old Japanese style of weights and measures, the yō is 1 sun and 5 bu, or 15 bu. A “half-yō increase” (hanyōmashi) would be eight bu, but for the convenience of calculation, we can say it’s 2cm, for a yō width of 6cm. (So to be precise, it is actually a one-third-yō increase rather than a half-yō increase.)
Whenever you have sufficient fabric, the kesa should always be a kassetsu-e. If you don’t have enough fabric, it is acceptable to make chōyō-e (using different fabric for en and yō.)
The stitch must be the backstitch. Some may say a finer stitch is more beautiful, but that should not make the fine stitch more desirable. The purpose of the backstitch is not to make the stitching beautiful.
In Hōbukuzugi, Jiun Onko wrote, “Why should we consider a fine stitch so important? Nowadays, some people ask a skilled sewer to sew the kesa with a fine stitch. Even if this is not lazy, it is certainly half-hearted.”
To sew the kesa yourself has the greatest value; it is unacceptable to speak in terms of skilled or unskilled.
Ordinarily, one sews with silk thread, but essentially, any kind of thread is acceptable. One can take thread from the kesa cloth itself, pounding it straight; in this case, the backstitch will be hardly visible. However, from the point of view of thread strength and ease of sewing, it’s thought that silk thread is the best.
Grey thread is used often—whether the fabric is black or any other color, grey thread will always be a good match. However, there is no set rule for the color of the thread, so long as it isn’t the same color as the kesa itself.
It is strongly recommended that you use lots of pins and kenchoki (sewing clamp, also called a “third hand;” it was originally a tool for Japanese kimono sewing).

How to sew a rakusu

1. Sewing Together A1 and B1

2. Sewing Together B2 and A2

3. The joining of B3 and A3 is the same as in diagram 2.

4. The joining of C1 and D1 is the same as in diagram 1.

5. The joining of C2 and D2 is the same as in diagram 1.

After constructing each vertical panel, next join the panels to each other. We can label each panel A1B1 (middle), B2A2 (left of middle), B3A3 (right of middle), C1D1 (left outer edge), and C2D2 (right outer edge).

6. Sewing Together A1B1 and B2A2

7. Sewing the Righthand Side of A1B1 to B3A3

Now you have joined the three inner panels, which we will collectively call the central part. The next step is to join the outer panels, C1D1 and C2D2.

8. Attaching C and D on Both Sides

Having joined all five panels, you now have a completed five-panel kagami. Next, according to the diagram above, join the interfacing to the kagami.

9. How to Sew the En